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The Guilfordian

Spending big bucks at the Bistro

Ian Mitchie

Issue date: 12/7/07 Section: Features
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616 Dolly Madison Dr. (Friendly Ave.)
Greensboro, NC 27410
336.855.1313
$$$$ out of $$$$

As my graduation approaches I feel increasingly celebratory. This is why a visit to one of Greensboro's best restaurants came at just the right moment, when there's still plenty to do, but the light at the end of the tunnel is ever brightening. Just a stone's throw from campus, Bistro Sophia offers upscale dining free from pretense or affectations.

In business for over eight years, Bistro Sophia is owned and operated by chef Beth Kizhnerman. The restaurant offers regular à la carte dining and in-house catering for special occasions. A small bar sits tucked away in a corner, inviting after-work depressurization sessions for those who imbibe.

A friendly and efficient host greeted us at the door and seated us promptly even though we had no reservation. One of our group ordered a glass of sauvignon blanc while the waiter brought crusty fresh bread with white bean and garlic spread to the table. His demeanor was affable and knowledgeable, and we joked about mispronunciations of certain food items, using one syllable to say pate (pronounced pat-ay).

We split an appetizer of house-made pate with figs, red onion and Dijon mustard. The condiments added a variety of sweet and sour flavors to the pate which went well with the crusty bread.

For the entree, I chose the grilled salmon, while one of my companions ordered the duck and another had the steak frites. The salmon was perfectly grilled, with a sweet glaze and lychees (a sweet Southeast Asian berry) accompanying a flavorful wild rice medley. The duck was expertly cooked and presented.

A haystack of pencil-thin homemade pommes frites, better known as french-fries, accompanied the perfect medium-rare steak. I love this combination of steak and potatoes, and shared a generous portion of my friend's entree.

Dessert found us swapping orders as well. I ordered the creme brulee of the day, which turned out to be an inventive, but somewhat odd-tasting, green tea flavor. One of my dining companions ordered chocolate cake which was rich enough induce an endorphin coma. It was my kind of dessert. An excellent berry crumble with homemade ice cream rounded out the trio, and by the time we stood up from the table we were all a little punchy from excellent food, company, and atmosphere.

Many upscale restaurants wear their reputations on their sleeves, looking down on less than the snootiest patrons. My group was dressed casually and our mood was anything but formal, but the folks at Bistro Sophia made no indication that were weren't valued customers.

The bill was staggering, over $100 for three, but I expected as much. Make sure your credit limit is stable when you venture Bistro Sophia's way. But for a special occasion, or if you make six figures, it's worth every penny.
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